Used Jet Ski Buyers Guide

Let’s admit it, buying a used jet ski can be tricky and complicated.

This is why I poured everything I know about buying used jet skis into one ebook. I have over 10 years of experience at a dealership selling/buying jet skis, I’ve come across it all and placed it into a PDF ebook to help others along this journey.

To demonstrate the value that this ebook gives, I’ve given away the first few chapters of it below. There is still much more to read and many other important factors about owning a jet ski in this ebook.

The complete copy of the ebook can be bought here, or at the bottom you can learn more.

Don’t Buy A 2-Stroke

I know I may sound like a broken record, but it is best to avoid 2-Stroke Jet Skis. They’re a dying breed of watercraft, and many lakes banned them for being so polluting. Parts are getting harder to find for them, and many are on their last leg.

If all you want is a simple jet ski for the summer that is cheap, then get a 2-Stroke. Just know it won’t last long and is being phased out, but you can find them cheap, and their small hulls are super playful.

Point to the dip stick on a PWC
Figure 1

Instead of a 2-Stroke get a 4-Stroke Jet Ski. 4-Stroke’s are better on gas and don’t need oil added to the gas to run; you just change the oil once a year or so many hours instructed by the manufacturer.

How to Tell if you have a 2-Stroke or a 4-Stroke?

A 4-Stroke will have a dip stick located on top of the engine (see figure 1).

The Dipstick might not be in this exact location unless it’s a Sea-Doo then this will be exactly where it is for all 4-Strokes except the Spark. Another giveaway with Sea-Doo that it’s a 4-Stroke is that it will say 4-Tec somewhere, this one says it on the plastic cover above the Dip Stick.

Check Engine Oil

With a clean white rag remove the dipstick and wipe the oil that is on the dipstick onto the white rag. If the oil is black, then go ahead and change it along with the spark plugs too. It is always a good idea to get the oil changed, and spark plugs replaced even if the seller said they did it just to be on the safe side.

If the oil is amber in color, then the oil has been changed recently. This is a good sign, and this can be a way to tell if the seller is honest if they said they changed the oil recently.

If the oil looks like a melted chocolate milkshake and is runny, then this is very bad. A very runny or chocolate color oil means there is water in the engine and you should walk away from the deal.

Don’t forget to check the oil level. Just like a car you have high and low points on the dipstick that shows you the level. You want the oil level to be in the middle. If you don’t see any oil, then it’s either in the hull or was never put in which is very bad.

If you see oil in the bottom of the hull, then that is not a good sign. There should be no oil unless it’s a 2-Stroke in the hull of a jet ski. If it’s a 2-Stroke, then the oil tank or lines are leaking. If it’s a 4-Stroke with oil in the hull, then something is not right, and I would avoid it.

Check The Battery

The battery is the next thing you want to check as it’s common for them to be bad or old when someone is selling there used jet ski. People forget about maintaining the battery and a lot of the times a bad battery is the cause of many problems people run into.

The best way to test a battery is with a load tester and not a voltmeter. A voltmeter can lie to you and say the battery has 12 volts, but it’s not voltage that starts a jet ski, but amps and only a load tester will measure the amps correctly.

To be honest, you don’t need a load tester at all to see if a battery is good. Simply starting the jet ski out of the water with everyone away from the pump in an open area should be all you need to do. You want to listen to the jet ski start; it should sound strong and spin effortlessly. If the engine sounds like it’s struggling to turn over, then that could be a weak battery or some other issues like a weak starter motor, something in the pump, or as severe as the engine being blown.

Another thing you want to check with the battery is its age. You can expect a jet ski battery to last 2 to 3 years if taken care of. Also, the quality of the battery is important too. You have sealed dry batteries, and liquid batteries and the sealed dry batteries are far better.

Usually, the stock battery that comes new in jet skis is the cheaper and the not so great liquid battery. A simple way to know if you have a good battery or not is that the cheaper ones will have caps on top of them that can be screwed off. These caps are usually green, yellow, or red in color. See Figure 2, the low-quality battery has caps, and the high-quality batteries don’t have the caps.

High quality and low quality jet ski battery
Figure 2

Somewhere on the battery will be a sticker that is usually round and on the sides. This sticker will have a letter and a number on it. The letter stands for the month, and the number is the year it was made. So if the sticker says “D7”, then it was built in 2017, and this is important to us. If the battery is older than 2 or 3 years, then I would go ahead and replace it.

Knowing you should replace the battery can help talk the seller down on price because you can show them the battery is old or getting old and needs to be replaced. If you pay a repair shop to install the battery for you, then don’t forget the cost of labor too.

To keep a battery in good shape, I recommend keeping a battery charger or a solar charger on it when you don’t plan on using the jet ski for more than a month. Make sure to get a smart charger that turns on and off when it needs to. If you do get a solar charger stick to 1.5 watts to 2.5 watts to avoid overcharging the battery. The best practice is to install the quick connections that usually come with smart 12-volt chargers and keep the battery on charge when you’re not using it and disconnect at the quick-disconnects before riding.

Or keep the solar charger connected all the time and when you go ride store the solar charger in the storage compartment nearest the battery and take it out when you’re done riding to let it charge. A solar charger doesn’t need to be in direct sunlight but does need to be outside the watercraft to work.

The reason why jet ski batteries don’t last that long is that we don’t drive them enough. We drive our cars all the time, and it starts every time we get in it. If we did not drive our car for months the battery in it would drain too. A battery charger keeps the battery active and alive, so it’s ready to go when you want to ride. If you ride your jet ski every week or so then you might not need to keep it on charge, but if there are times where you might go a month or more without riding it like in the winter, then you need to get a battery charger.

Compression Test

The best way to tell if an engine is blown or good is with a compression test. The way you check the compression is with a compression gauge. Testing the compression might be a more advanced step, and I recommend letting a dealership do it for you instead.

When testing compression you want all cylinders to be close to each other and above 100PSI. A supercharged jet ski’s compression will be lower than a non-supercharged model.

To give you an example of bad compression – when one or more of the cylinders is 15% lower than the others that is bad. If I have a jet ski with 110PSI on one of the cylinders while the other 2 are around 160PSI, then that is a problem. But if cylinder 1 is at 135PSI, cylinder 2 is at 130PSI, and cylinder 3 is at 135PSI then that is good. When testing compression everyone has their own way of doing it. I like to have all spark plugs out when I test mine. Also, it’s important that all spark plugs are disconnected, and you hold the throttle wide open, and the jet ski is not in the water.

If testing the compression sounds too hard then the next best thing to do is take it for a test ride. We talk more about test rides further down.

Engine Hours

You can expect the average person to put 30 hours on their jet ski a year.

When it comes to engine hours, there are two things to worry about, too many hours or not enough hours. If someone has a 2-year-old jet ski with over 400 hours I worry. If someone has an 10-year-old jet ski with only 30 hours on it, I worry. Both cases are not typical, and I worry about what events caused these numbers.

Besides those outliers, there are some golden numbers to consider.

Under 50 hours = Great

50 hours to 100 hours = Good

100 to 200 hours = Okay

But those numbers are only good for a quick estimate and don’t mean anything unless you factor in the age of the watercraft. That is why I use this chart (figure 3) to let me compare jet ski hours to the age of the watercraft.

jet ski hours for the years
Figure 3

The older the jet ski, the more hours I expect it to have. If a jet ski is 5 years old, I expect it to be around 150 hours. If the jet ski is under 150 hours, then that is great, and I move on to checking other factors. If the jet ski is 5 years old with over 150 hours on it, then I get worried depending on how much over it is. If it’s only 20 hours over then no big deal, but if its 50 hours over then I make sure to do a more thorough inspection to ensure everything else is fine.

Just like a car, the more hours you have, the more repairs you might have to do. Keep this in mind when looking at older jet skis especially 2-stroke models.

Check For Rust

When looking at the engine check to see if you see any rust. It would be normal to see some rust especially if the watercraft was used near salt water. It’s when you see a lot of rust or the paint flaking off the engine that it starts to become an issue. Rust equals corrosion, and enough of it will lead to electrical problems in the future.

If I see paint from the engine flaking off in clumps, I might not buy the jet ski. It takes a lot of salt and salty water to make paint want to come off anything.

Check To See If It’s Been Sunk

The easiest way to tell if a jet ski has been sunk is to see how heavy the seat feels. If the seat is really heavy (feels like you can barely hold it) or is dripping a lot of water, then it’s been sunk. Another way to tell if the seat has water in it is to push on it and you’ll hear the water come out. A sunken jet ski will have problems in the future even more so if it was sunk in salt water.

Many jet skis will do fine when the proper steps are taken to get the water out of it but if the seller is not honest about the sinking from the get-go then something is not right. Other signs of a sunken jet ski is the engine compartment will be covered in dirt like in figure 4.

Sunken jet ski engine that is dirty
Figure 4

This jet ski in figure 4 is the worst case scenario for sinking. If the engine compartment of a jet ski looks this dirty, then run far away.

The Table of Contents for the Used Jet Ski Buyers Guide

Below is the entire table of contents showing you what you’ll get when you buy and download the ebook.

Don’t Buy a 2-Stroke – Learn the differences of a 2-stroke and a 4-stroke jet ski and why you should avoid the 2-strokes.

Check Engine Oil – How to check the engine oil and what color and condition to avoid.

Check Battery – What type of battery to use and how to determine the age of the battery. An old battery or a bad one could be a great bargaining tool.

Compression Test – One of the most important tests you can do to determine if an engine is good or bad and what range you want to be in.

Engine Hours – What engine hours really mean and the golden numbers to look for.

Check for Rust – Where to check for rust and what to avoid when you see it.

Check To See If It’s Been Sunk – What are the signs the jet ski has been sunk and if you should avoid it.

SuperchargersWhat’s the big deal with superchargers and what extra steps you should be doing to make sure a supercharged jet ski is worth it.

Check the Pump – Learn what the pump of a jet ski can tell you about the condition of it and how well it was maintained.

Check Drain Plugs – Learn where the drain plugs are and if they’re good or bad.

Check the Reboarding Ladder – The step or often called reboarding ladder can tell you a lot about how well the craft was taken care of.

Check for Damage – An overall check to see what is normal wear and tear and what is major.

Check the Floor Mats – The floor mats of a jet ski are often overlooked but can tell you a lot about the condition of a watercraft.

Check the Seats – Learn what damaged seats look like and what to do about them. You also learn what one major issue is with some seats that tell you not to buy a watercraft.

Ask for Service Records – Why service records matter and how best to keep them yourself.

Check the Trailer Out – We can’t forget the jet ski trailer. Learn many tips about trailers and what to avoid.

Test Ride It – What to look out for when you test ride the watercraft and other tips to watch out for.

What Do You Pay – The big question, learn what is fair to pay with an example.

Bonus Tips – With 16 bonus tips, you have ones from what dock to get to what not to do when jump-starting a jet ski.

To buy the full copy of the Used Jet Ski Buyers Guide Ebook Click Here or click on the “I want this” button below.


To buy the rest of this eBook, please complete the checkout process below.

63 thoughts on “Used Jet Ski Buyers Guide”

  1. what do you think of wave boat the one you attach your jet ski so it allows you more seats. does it worth buying and which jet ski would be better to use wave boat with?

    • I never liked them. It greatly slows down the jet ski, a little harder to control, and the extra seats are tight. I rather get a second cheap jet ski than one of those.

  2. I am looking to buy 2018 Sea Doo GTS (in Canada) for about $8,400 US Dollars ($10,500 CAD) from a local guy – testing it tomorrow. It has only 30 hours on it. What I find weird is that it is advertised as 90hp and has white bottom and orange seat. When I look at the pics, I see 2018 GTS model supposed to be black bottom and teal seat. While 2017 model has black bottom and orange seat. Only 2016 model has white bottom and orange seat, however it is 130Hp! I don’t understand what’s going on here. Any suggestions?
    Also it does not have IBR system. How big this could be a problem??

    • It sounds like the seller is confused or something is not right. He might be confusing the color above the rub rail as it’s often white on the GTS. Sea-Doo did make 90HP GTI SE in funky colors around that time so he might have that. The GTS did not have iBR which means no reverse or brakes, only forward. You can live without the iBR but that’s like saying you can live without an automatic transmission in your car, an auto is just so much easier. You’ll know it’s a 90HP when you look at the engine, this is what a 90HP engine looks like…

  3. Hello Steven,
    Thank you for giving advice. We are looking at two 2007 Honda and Seadoo Honda Acqatrax and seadoo rxp with 43 and 60 hours. Your thoughts? Many Thanks

  4. Hi Steven
    I bought the book, great value at $10. I’m looking at a 2014 Kawasaki STX-15F with 204 hrs or a 2010 Sea Doo GTI 130 with 90 hrs – after reading the book this sounds dodgy, but the seller is prepared to let it go for a spin, so that sounds good – no wonder this is confusing. Both are the same price, ie $7k in Australia and both look reasonable for that age from the advert photos. There is also a 2015 Sea Doo GTI 130 with 109 hrs, but all seawater hours as it was a sea-rescue unit, meaning not pushed hard and looked after pretty well with flushing after every ride, etc. If there isn’t a corrosion issue like in your slides, would you be concerned about the 109 hrs in sea water? This one is more expensive at $8.6k. I can do all the checks you suggest.
    Another question goes about hours – when saying 400 hrs is old, is it the PWC body itself that is of concern or is it the motor and pump or other parts?

  5. Great site and book. Just bought it Apr 2021. With the jet ski market wacky the last year+, seems a sellers market. Tough to find a used ski from a dealer, and CL sellers seem able to sell w/o a buyer going thru the due diligence in the book. I’m now considering a new Sea Doo Wake 170 – that will run $15k with a trailer. Alternatively, may have lead on 2013 Sea Doo 215 GTX with aluminum trailer (don’t know hours yet – but ~ 200+) for around $9k. I really didn’t want to spend this much for a toy for the kids that prob won’t get a ton of use. Am I better off just keeping patient for dealers to get used models in as spring continues? Previously had an 04 Vans Wake w 225 hrs that I got for 3k and ran just fine.

    • It’s going to be tricking because they’re in demand but dealers should get used units in constantly now. The trick is that you need to call or email your sales guy weekly so you stay on top of their mind. Don’t rely on their websites to update with used, call or email is the sure-fire way to know.

  6. Hi Steve, looking at a 2018 VX Cruiser HO with 123 hours. It comes with Triton Aluminum trailer. Seems like it has been well taken care of with mostly fresh water riding with occasional salt. I’ve got him talked down to 9k. Seems a tad high to me but seems to match NADA. What are your thoughts? A dealer here is also selling a 2016 VXR with only 11 hours for ~11400 out the door with galvanized trailer. Which is the better deal or would you go for neither?

    • This is a tough one. I generally like the VXR more but you can get a newer XV Cruiser HO for cheaper. The hours are a little high on the VX but not too crazy. I personally would lean more for the 2018 as it’s cheaper and a nicer ride with a better trailer.

  7. Steve,

    Appreciate all your articles and have read your comparison between Yamaha and Seadoo. I am a first time buyer who has been looking for the last year and now ready to pull the trigger. I found a 2019 seadoo GTR 230 for 12k with trailer and only 30 hours. I am trying to figure out if a good deal. 1 owner and he says he just lost Interest in it. Looking for something to ride with family and kids to enjoy.

    • Prices are a little higher than normal but I would consider that a fair deal. It’s more than enough power for the family and plenty of HP that you won’t get bored anytime soon.

  8. Hi. Great article. Thinking about purchasing my first PWC. Any thoughts on a 2017 Yamaha VX Cruiser HO with cruise, no wake mode, digital display, ladder. Has 3 seater theatre seating, 19.5 gal gas tank, key fob alarm system and you can switch drive modes. Has 150 hours and states has been dealer maintained. Also included is a 2018 Load Rite Trailer. Owner says there is a tear in the seam of the seat that he is getting fixed. Been stored inside during the winters. Will not be able to test drive it.
    Asking price is 9K. Should I be worried about the hours?

    • Sounds like a fair deal to me especially with a trailer. The seat tearing is not uncommon for jet skis especially if it has over 100 hours on it. The hours are a little high but for that model is not too worrying.

  9. I would love your recommendation for someone just starting out – buy new, used? This will be for college boys and older(dad and mom, etc) to use on a lake that can be super smooth or with bigger waves depending. Might be interested in towing, but more likely cruising together. Would like to spend under $15k for two with trailer.

    • For this situation, I would look for two used Sea-Doo GTI’s or Yamaha VX especially if you want a trailer. While getting two new Sea-Doo Sparks or two new Yamaha EX could get you at that price point you won’t be as comfortable as the GTI or VX models if you plan on doing mostly cruising. The EX and Spark are more of a get out on the water, blast around, do some tricks and get wet kind of a ride. Where the VX or GTI is more cruising but still can be playful. If you do a lot of cruising with two people or more on one jet ski then for sure you want the bigger VX or GTI jet skis.

  10. I just found your article and found it very informative. I did purchase a 2008 Sea Doo RTX with 340 miles for $4k. I is very clean and I saw something on it about – Supercharge. When i researched it, I saw that it has to be rebulit every 200 hours. Would like your input. Necessary to do every 200 hours?

    • If it’s never been done for that model I would get it done now. To be on the safe side I would do it every 100 hours on that model.

  11. Hey Steve: Great information! Thank you so much for providing a place for us newbies to go to. I recently found 2 – 2004 Seadoo GTX 155 with about 120 hours each on them. I haven’t seen them up close but the owner was willing to send me videos of them both and they really do look super clean. I asked about Maint. records….and he indicated that he doesn’t have a paper trail but that his friend is a SeaDoo Tech and he does all the maint on the machines at his home. It’s apparent to me by seeing other toys he has in his garage, that he takes care of his equipment My issue is the age of the machines. Would I be crazy to pursue machines this old? He’s asking $8K for both machines with a double trailer that also looks in excellent shape. Interested in your thoughts and Thanks!

    • I would ask him about compression, maybe a video doing a compression test to make sure they’re within 15% of each other and above 100psi. I’ve had a few 2004 give me battery drain issues due to a switch flipping but other than that nothing really stands out to me. The 155HP engine from Sea-Doo was a good engine. The price seems fair too.

  12. Steven,

    Enjoy your site. Thanks for the tips. Planning to test ride a 2013 GTI SE 130 tomorrow. Can get it for $6300 with a cover and I think a trailer. (I’m assuming the trailer is included in that price, but not 100% sure). It has just under a 100 hours, a few cosmetic dings on the outside and a little mold/mildew on the seat that I think can be cleaned up. Engine compartment looks clean, but will take a closer look tomorrow. I haven’t seen the maintenance records yet, but understand they are available. Anything specific I should look for on this model? Would appreciate your thoughts on the price, etc. Thanks.

    • Get the VIN and call your local Sea-Doo dealership to make sure there are no open warranty claims. Around that time the GTI had a timing chain issue on a very small subset of units. Other than that it’s a rock-solid machine. The price seems high if it does not come with a trailer but due to high demand in 2020, it’s not unheard of.

  13. Steven, really enjoy your articles. I own a MY ’18 Sea Doo GTI SE 130. Have been looking for a twin for it. Found an identical matching color scheme MY ’18 Sea Doo GTI SE 90 with only 3 hours on it. Asking $8,250 for it at an independent service/sales shop. (1) will the 90 keep up with the 130? (2) 3 hours on a MY ’18 seems funky, thoughts? Looking for some guidance…thank you!

    • There will be a noticeable difference in power from the 90 to the 130. And 3 hours on 2-year old jet ski doesn’t sound right. That sounds super suspicious to me. They would need a good reason for a jet ski to have those few hours. Usually, when it’s that low on hours it was a demo model or a machine with so many problems from the start that they just now got it fixed and looking to get rid of it.

  14. We are looking at purchasing a couple sea doos for a family of 4. So far we have picked up a used 2020 GTR 230 which we will use for doing some towing and cruising. We are also looking for a second machine. I have been considering a 2018 3 up spark that was bought new this spring and has very low hours. I am just not sure if we should go with the smaller spark or be looking at another gti machine like the 130 or 155. We will not likely be going on really long cruises but may head down the lake 10 miles or so to find a beach to hang at for the day and then tow the kids and play around on the other machine. Just kind of looking for some guidence on what two machines would compliment each other for a family.

    • The Spark will feel more uncomfortable compared to your GTR that is for sure. The Spark will be better if you like a very playful ski, spinning it out and jumping waves. A Spark is more like a dirtbike where your GTR is more like a cruiser motorcycle. If you like the feel of your GTR a GTI will be a better fit for you, they’re slower but the ride is the same as the GTR. If you feel cramped on the GTR then the GTX or RXT body is the next step up. I’ve had several customers get a GTI and then a Spark to have the best of both words but many of them find out the kids fight over either one. Most often it’s the kids who like the Spark more and only want to ride that. If you plan on riding both together a lot I would go with a GTI because the GTR will leave the Spark behind not because it’s faster but because it can take the waves better.

  15. Hi Steve, thanks for all the information on your site. Super helpful. I am a first time buyer and seldom renter (maybe 6 times in my life). Been riding motorcycles for the past 40 years. I will be 3 up most of the time – myself, wife and 6 year old child – totaling 370 lbs. I’ve kind of zeroed in on a new 2020 GTI 130SE or 170SE. Would these be good for 3up most of the time? There is also a used 2018 GTX 230 (non limited) With 15 hours on it for $11.5K in my town. The 130SE is the same price at $11.4K plus doc fees. Both prices do not include a trailer. Our interest is non aggressive riding, moving around our multiple lakes, but not big all day touring. What are your thoughts? Would the 2020 GTI SE 130/170 or the 2018 GTX 230 be better for my needs?

    Thanks, Richard

    • If you’re going to be doing a lot of 3up riding I would go with the GTX body over the GTI body. It’s a little longer and will handle the extra capacity better. The good news is that both models have features that keep each one tamed like touring mode. The GTI body will be more playful while the GTX body will be more stuck in the water. If you had to go with the GTI I would get the 130HP unless you plan on doing a lot of pull sports and then the 170 will be more useful. The 130 can still pull fine but the 170 has more bottom end power for pulling tubes and such.

  16. Hi there great site. is the 2014 gtxs 155 a good reliable model for towing biscuits and wake boarding behind. also with the suspension is it still playful

    • The GTX-S was a fine machine though the tow point was where it hinges at so it’s not ideal but it will work. The interesting thing about the suspension models like the GTX-S was that it was more top-heavy which made it more playful especially for spinning out the jet ski.

  17. Hi. I’m a single mom trying to buy a jet ski for my teenage son and myself. I found a Sea Doo RXP 215 for $5250. It seems to be in great shape. 175 miles on it. Is this a good deal? Thank you

    • I would be careful with the 25HP Sea-Doo supercharged engines especially around 2006 to 2009 as they had supercharger problems. If the guy has never done the supercharger rebuild I would either avoid it or take $1k off. That model depending on what shims the supercharger has it either needs to be rebuilt every 100 hours or 200 hours.

  18. What about too few hours? You say under 50 hours is “great”, but what if it is a 2012 with only 50 hours at 7ish years old? I’m looking at a used Wake 155, and cosmetically it looks immaculate, in the pics. But it at a dealer and history is a bit harder to verify.

    • A Wake 155 uses the 155HP 4-tec engine and it’s pretty bulletproof if you ask me. Plus, it’s a Wake model too, that is a great combo! See if you can test ride it and you got a great option for a Sea-Doo!

      • Doesn’t look like a test ride is going to be an option. But dealer says they lake tested, did compression check, and serviced it.
        I’m torn between a ‘12 with 52 hours for $6.5k (plus trailer and cover $7.3k), and an ‘18 with 16 hours for $10.5k. I could test ride the ‘18. Both are Wake 155’s.

  19. Hi Steven! I’m looking at a neighbor’s 2014 GTI 130 SE with 30 hours on it! He says he kept it on a floating dock year round (southeast TN – lake does not freeze over), with a cover on it, since he got it. Because it was under 50 hours, he has yet to change oil or plugs. He has a trailer with it, and is asking $7k. He has not winterized it ever but says I can use the drain to drain water and add anti-freeze (?).

    Anyhow, I’m going to look at it this afternoon, thoughts on what I should keep an eye out for? I’ve downloaded and read your e-guide. I”ve also read (almost?) all the articles on your site. I’ve never had a PWC and only rarely ridden one. I do not know how to work a compression check or anything like that.


    • The non-winterizing can be an issue, especially where you live the air gets below freezing for 24 hours. The best thing to do is take it for a ride and see how it takes off. A good 10-minute ride and then bring it back and turn the engine off and look under the seat for any sitting water. This will tell you if him not winterizing it did any damage. This is usually not a huge deal for non-supercharged engines like the GTI’s. I would also for sure get a service done on it, that is too long for my comfort especially since it’s a 2014 model and now it’s 2019 – that is too long to go without an oil change.

      I’m not sure what he’s talking about the drain? Maybe the drain plugs but that has nothing to do with winterizing. And it’s normal to add anti-freeze if the machine needs it but it’s not often that it does. If you’re in doubt about the machine it would be better to let a shop do a test on it, maybe even get him to take it in and get a service done and have him show you the checklist that is performed before buying it.

    • It’s 34 pages long, about 50 minutes to read, and 14 real images I’ve taken over years to point out what to avoid when buying a used jet ski. There is a lot of information in this book that took me years to collect from selling and buying used jet skis and even general + helpful jet ski advice too.


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