As the chill of winter sets in, it’s a good time to start thinking about the jet ski winterize process.
It’s important that you ensure your jet ski and trailer are thoroughly prepared for the colder months for maintaining their performance and longevity!!!
These steps are a super important process, especially if you live somewhere that gets below 40F/5C! You’ll be surprised by the number of people who simply forget about winterizing, so don’t let it slip you by!
Note: This post is more geared towards Sea-Doo, but it’s just about the same for Yamaha and Kawasaki.
What you need:
You’ll need to purchase a few items for multiple years of use.
- 1-Gal (per machine) of RV/Marine Antifreeze.
- A marine fuel and gas stabilizer.
- Fogging spray storage oil.
- WD-40 Silicone spray lubricant or a similar product.
How to Winterize Your Jet Ski
The winterize process involves adding fuel stabilizer, flushing it with antifreeze, fogging the cylinders, disconnecting the battery, and greasing some components. The video below shows how if you need a visual.
Below, I’ve listed the full steps you need to take:
1: Add Fuel Stabilizer
The first thing you must do is add fuel stabilizer to the gas tank to keep the fuel in great shape as the ski sits. The fuel stabilizer bottles generally include measurements suitable for a gas tank ranging from 2.5 to 20 gallons.
If you’re wondering if the fuel tank full or nearly empty, it’s up to you.
You want to add the fuel stabilizer first, ensuring it mixes well and reaches all the fuel lines, before starting the next steps.
2: Flush With Antifreeze
The second step is the most important step, it involves removing the water from the engine and exhaust system!
The way you remove water from PWC engines is by using a marine-grade antifreeze. Below, I’ve listed the steps to use for flushing the engine with the antifreeze.
- Level PWC.
- Connect the drill pump to the flush port and get the antifreeze ready.
- Turn the engine on.
- Turn on the drill pump and use the entire gallon of antifreeze.
- When you use up the whole gallon of antifreeze, turn off the drill pump, then switch off the engine.
You want antifreeze coming out the exhaust, nozzle, jet pump area, or the side discharge port. If you don’t see antifreeze come out of ONE of these ports after 20 seconds, turn the pump off and then the engine off, as something not going to plan!!! Here is a video showing you how:
The owner’s manual suggests using compressed air for removing any water, but I prefer a marine antifreeze. I find it easier for people to get the drill pump than get an air compressor.
Should you add water to the antifreeze? The Marine and RV antifreeze should come pre-diluted and ready. Additionally, water remains in the cooling system of your jet ski, hence the whole process, as it inevitably blends with water. So, adding more water is not what we want.
3: Coat & Fog Internal Engine Parts
The third step involves the engine and fogging it.
The reason you want to fog jet ski engines is so you coat internal metal components to prevent rusting during periods of inactivity.
Fogging engines requires you to remove all spark plugs and spray fogging oil into each cylinder for about 3 seconds. The video below shows the fogging step:
At the start of the season, it’s advisable to replace spark plugs because of the effect of the fogging oil.
4: Remove Battery And Charge It
The reality is that jet ski batteries go flat during the cold, so it’s good we remove them after and keep them in a dry and above freezing, or we run the risk of not starting next season.
Ideally, connect the battery to a smart charger that manages charging automatically. Alternatively, charge batteries every other month.
Will you have a dead battery if it doesn’t get charged over winter? Maybe. The biggest complaint at the start of the seasons I get from people is that their jet ski won’t start, and it’s because of the battery. PWC batteries are small and don’t get used enough, leading to them dying. A battery charger proves effective in maintaining battery life throughout the cold season. What I do is use a solar charger as I keep my jet skis outside and get 5 years out of my batteries.
The solar charger doesn’t need direct sunlight and will keep PWC batteries active and happy! It’s so stupid easy and effective that I don’t know why the manufacturers don’t just have the solar panels already on the covers?
5: Spray WD40 specialist Silicone Lubricant
The most overlooked step, you’ll want to spray WD40 silicone spray lubricant on all metal and electrical parts, including the engine and jet pump area.
Let the PWC sit for 15 minutes so it can air out, it’s flammable!!!
Make sure to lubricate the throttle and steering cables with marine grease.
Avoid regular WD-40, use the silicone version. The regular stuff doesn’t coat, it merely displaces water.
Here’s a useful tip for those residing near saltwater: regularly apply silicone spray on engine and jet pump areas. Repeat this process annually, allowing it to air dry for 15 minutes each time, and your PWC will maintain its appearance for years!
6: Put The Cover On
Do not leave the cover off your PWC after the winterizing, this is a very important step. The cover keeps the snow and more importantly, rodents, spiders and other critters from getting in and eating or destroying your PWC.
Rodents like the taste of rubber and plastic, so put a cover on your cover, if you ask me.
Please consider getting a shrink wrapping job done to your PWC. Shrinking wrapping keeps the PWC in near perfect condition; snow and rain won’t affect it.
How To De-Winterize A PWC
If your PWC has been winterized, it’ll need to be de-winterized / summerized. The good news is that the de-winterize process is a lot easier than the winterizing process.
- Charge the battery.
- Replace spark plugs.
- Top up the gas tank with fresh gas.
- Go for a ride.
Note: If you take the jet ski out for a winter ride, it will need a quick winterize again.
To learn more about this process, see my post here.
Trailer Care Tips
Regular PWC trailer maintenance is essential for prolonging the lifespan of your trailer.
Here’s what I suggest doing:
- Lubricate wheel bearings.
- Lubricate latch.
- Ensure correct air pressure in tires.
- Try to give an attempt to lift the tires off the ground when sitting for extended periods. Place blocks under the axle. Detach a tire to discourage theft of trailer.
- Inspect straps, substituting any that show wear or fading.
- Apply an anti-corrosion spray to the trailer.
If you’re keeping your jet skis on the trailer, consider tilting the trailer back by placing something under the trailer “hitch”. This action lets any stagnant water flow out from footwells or hull, preventing bugs and animals from making homes.
Winter Storage
Keeping jet skis in fresh water for a few days is fine, but any longer and you need a proper solution. For saltwater, it’s best to take them out after you’re done for the day; leaving them in the water for too long can damage it or worse, it can sink.
You have several options for long-term storage:
- Trailer
- Lift
- Marina
The options mentioned above are common. Many trailer owners choose to store them on a trailer itself, which is effective. Although some trailer maintenance, as detailed in this post, is required, this method often proves it’s a cost-effective option for many.
For a lakefront resident, I recommend investing into jet ski lifts. The options include lifts for driving onto or lifts that elevate jet skis to a loading spot. Try figuring out what’s the perfect lift for your needs, I have a post that covers that here. I find the drive up lifts to be the easier ones.
An alternative involves docking at the marina. The marina handles both launching and retrieving your boat, or provides a slip for your convenience.
Either option you go with, I suggest you put a cover on your PWC. Or, if you can, keep it inside a shed or garage.
Security Protection
One clever thing is adding some security protection. Jet skis are expensive, and security cameras are cheap these days, so why not have one watching your jet ski?
It’s important to understand that they’re highly sought after by thieves, particularly because they often contain a significant amount of fuel and their compact size makes them easy targets for quick thefts.
When you store on a trailer, using trailer locks becomes vital. Making your machine harder to steal discourages potential thieves from targeting your stuff.
While situated on lifts, ensure security by using chains or a cable lock to attach the bow hook to the lift or dock.
I don’t stop there, look into Apple AirTags and hide them in the PWC like I do. These things are cheap and simply work.
Read more information on security, see my post here.
Hi Steven,
Last week I snagged a 2020 GTI SE with sound system for $10,299 including trailer. 66 hours. With the prices and availability of things right now I didn’t feel too bad about that.
When I go to winterize that, is it better to winterize with a near full tank of gas or do I want to run the gas down as low as possible before tucking it away?
Fuel tank level is more of a personal preference. Many people like to fill it all the way up and then add the fuel stabilizer. I personally keep the gas tank under two bars and then add the fuel stabilizer. Then when the season starts I fill it up with premium and it hasn’t failed me yet.
Thanks… I know Sea-Doo recommends just 87 octane gas. You feel better with premium? How about ethanol free?
If it’s non-supercharged then regular is fine, but if it’s supercharged I would run premium. At the start of the season, I always put in premium to freshen up the gas that’s been sitting during the winter. If you can avoid ethanol do that but it’s no big deal if you can’t.
Steven,
Can you help me? I live in Lake Tahoe and Cave rock boat ramp is open all winter long. My plan is to wear a long wetsuit and ride my Jetski (2021 Sea-Doo GTX230) probably into November. Do I need to winterize it if I am riding it 1-2 times a week in November? After November I will definitely winterize it but just wanted to see if it is safe to ride it regularly into November?
Thank you,
Daniel
If it gets below freezing for more than 24 hours I would at least do the RV & Marine antifreeze flush.